We take the night at the Nile Safari Lodge, a luxury solar-powered eco-retreat downstream from Murchison Falls, right on the banks of the river, which here is wide and textured like the skin of an old person’s cheek. It was along this stretch that John Huston filmed one of my favorite films, The African Queen. And the reasons become obvious while taking a boat upstream, along the way passing towers of giraffe, memories of elephant, obstinacies of buffalo, bloats of hippos, and as we approach the bottom of Murchison Falls, basks of crocodiles, hundreds of crocs, just as in the movie.
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